SANTIAGO EL PINAR, THE REBIRTH OF TRADITION.
Santiago El Pinar is a municipality in the state of Chiapas, located in the region known as Los Altos. Its inhabitants belong to the Tsotsil cultural and linguistic ethnic group, which, in turn, is part of the Mayan Culture. One hundred percent of its population is indigenous and the index of femininity in this town is 102 women for every 100 men.
Of white fabric, without brocade and embroidery, joined on the sides and in the middle by hand using colored threads, this is the huipil of Santiago el Pinar, one of the protagonist garments in Los Altos de Chiapas. Its pure white, the result of a backstrap loom weaving where the weft and warp are the same color, gives it a simplicity and elegance worthy of admiration, as this garment is unique in its kind.
Although the huipil of Santiago el Pinar is not a visible garment, its diffusion, elaboration process and meaning is extremely important.
To make the huipil, two completely white canvases are woven in a backstrap loom that once finished, are joined by hand with the buttonhole stitch using different colored threads. The final result is a garment for daily use.
The elaboration time of this garment is between 3 and 4 weeks and it is made with cotton thread (both the weaving and the joining of the linen).
The elaboration of the traditional huipil for daily use in Santiago el Pinar was being lost and forgotten because visually it was not an attractive piece for the weaving and textile trade in Los Altos de Chiapas, so making it no longer represented a profit or economic income for the women and instead of investing time in weaving, they dedicated themselves to other activities.
The native women of this municipality were changing the huipiles for commercial garments lacking in textile tradition without leaving aside the sash and the tangle that was still made (and is still made) in backstrap loom.
Currently, the native women of Santiago el Pinar, not only have resumed the elaboration and use of their traditional textile, but they are also adapting new colors and striped patterns to their weavings.
